The Elephant Camp

Chiang Mai, Thailand

One of the more usual sites we visited in Chiang Mai, Thailand, is the Elephant Camp. This is where retired elephants (yes, elephants have real jobs in Thailand carting lumber and clearing jungles) come to end their days. The camp is a non-profit organization subsisting on funding from foundations and income derived from selling crafts created by the elephants.

These elephants have had a change of career, moving from physical labour to showbiz. They have been re-trained to perform circus acts like playing musical instruments and balancing on one foot. And they always have a couple of elephants holding out buckets for tips at the end of each show. One wonders how a work elephant can develop the dexterity to cross a plank or walk on their hind legs but these magnificent beasts could give the Ringling Bros. circus elephants a run for their money. They also played basketball and soccer but not competitively. After all, they are retired.

There was even an attempt at comedy. One of the yahud (elephant trainers) asked if any audience member would care to have a free elephant massage. The thought of having an elephant perform shiatsu on my body made my knees go weak. But to our great amusement, a skinny Japanese tourist volunteered. He handed his camera over to his protesting wife and marched gamely into the arena. The yahud made him lie face down on a mat placed on the dirt floor. Then he gave a whistle and the cutest, darlingest baby elephant charged enthusiastically into the arena. Everyone howled with laughter as the Thai Dumbo started massaging the tourist with its trunk, squeezing and pounding gently. At the end of the massage, it even held out a straw hat for tips. They teach them young.

After enjoying the elephant show, we got to ride atop a 9-foot high elephant. By we, I meant my husband, John, our son Sean and I. Although John and Sean were thrilled, I was daunted by how far we were from the ground. A yahud sat astride the elephant's head and guided him through the jungle along with a string of other elephants. Up high, we had a good view of the tree tops, the river in the distance and a graphic view of the elephant ahead of us pooping as he trudged forward, gynomous butt swaying.

At the river bank, our Yahud leaped off the elephant and signaled that he wanted our video camera. Then with a series of barks and grunts, he got our elephant to pass back and forth in the river while he captured every move. There he was, a guy who couldn't speak a word of English, but was fluent in elephant-talk. At one point, he had the elephant pretend to squirt us with his trunk. Check out the video if you don't believe me.

After the exhilarating and unforgettable ride, we were treated to a river-rafting back to the camp. By that I mean, a bunch of us sat on stools strapped on a raft made of bamboo while a guide punted down a lazy river. It was slow and relaxing and we got to see some monitor lizards staring at us with their bulbous eyes among other creatures. Kind of like the Jungle Cruise in Disneyland minus the animatronics.

But they really saved the best for last. We were taken back to the arena where several easels had been set out. Nine elephants were trotted out and took their place at the easels. And they proceeded to paint. I'm not talking of splattering paint on the canvas but these artists painstakingly drew flowers, plants and elephants, what else! It was the most amazing feat I had ever seen. You can read more of this under Elephant Artist. At the end of the show, their masterpieces were snapped up by eager tourists. We now have a wonderful painting of an elephant in our family room. Guests often comment on how well Sean could draw. Yeah, right.

All in all, it was money well-spent. The full-day tour cost about $25 per adult and $15 per child. The tour covered the Elephant Camp, a snake show and a butterfly farm. Check out www.chiangmai-guideline.com. We booked the tour online and confirmed it with the tour operator when we got the hotel.