 A TAPESTRY IN MOSAIC
Our Savior on Spilled Blood, St Petersburg
When we think of Russia, the image of the Red Square with its multiple onion-like domes comes to mind. What most people don't realize is that there is a similar structure, equally stunning, in St Petersburg that is mostly blue and gold domes - the Cathedral of the Resurrection. This cathedral, created in the tradition of Russian art in the 14th century is more popularly known as The Cathedral of Spilled Blood. That is because the spot on which it stands, on the Griboyedov Canal, is where Alexander II was murdered in 1881. His son, Alexander III, built the cathedral in his memory.
 The cathedral is breathtaking from its first glimpse. The exterior is lavishly decorated with ornate windows, brilliantly-colored tiles and marble and glazed bricks. The domes are covered with sheets of enameled copper and the dome over the chancel is coated with golden smalt. I couldn't stop taking photos because every angle was a sight to behold. Despite the tragic incident that instituted its birth, the rich decor lends the cathedral a light and festive appearance.
 After gawking at the facade for like an eternity and satisfying myself that I had captured its majestic appearance from every possible angle, I entered the building and my jaw hit the ground with a resounding thud. I was assailed by a staggering array of colors. Every inch of the interior was covered with religious art in jewel tones. Even the tiles on the floor was an artwork of intricate patterns. And when I looked up (to give my eyes a break from the brilliance), I was astounded to see a canopy of colored stones forming scenes of the different stages of Jesus' life. Ten-foot dazzling chandeliers dangled from them. It looked like Alexander III did not spare any expense in creating this opulent memorial to his father which took 24 years to build. It houses more mosaics than than any church in the world.
 On close examination, you can see that each picture in the cathedral was a careful mosaic created from colored tiles. The guide explained that a painting was first created on the walls and then colored tiles placed over them to replicate the painting. Whatever the technique was, the results were stunning. Definitely one of the most unique cathedrals I had ever visited to-date.
 A elaborate shrine at the entrance marked the exact spot where the assassination took place. Although he was not buried there and the concept of the cathedral was to emphasize the resurrection of Christ, the beauty of the place certainly has kept his name alive.
Of course, it did not escape unscathed during the Russian Revolution. In the aftermath, the cathedral was ransacked and badly damaged and subsequently closed by the government. During World War II, It was used as a storage site for those who died in combat or illness. in 1970, restoration of the church started and it took 27 years, 4 years longer than it took to build it.
I hear that tourists flocked daily to marvel at the beautiful art creations but I was lucky on that day because the crowds were not too overwhelming. I was able to enjoy each piece at my own pace.
Across the street from the cathedral was a flea market. Although we were warned by the guide to be wary of the vendors, the colorful wares displayed were hard to resist. There were the matrioshka dolls, watercolor paintings of city landmarks, Faberge-styled eggs and the usual souvenirs. However, prices had to be haggled and after discovering some poorly made Faberge eggs, I left the bazaar empty-handed. I was glad I had purchased my Faberge replicas at The Hermitage store.
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